Neolite Concepts Howto
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- Simon B
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Neolite Concepts Howto
... well, sort-of.
As some will be aware, I, with help, have been converting every standard ship into a new form with the express purpose of replacing every in-game ship.
Right now this consists of neolite.oxp - replacing all the default ships, and a neolite-companion.oxp which handles ships from the oldships.oxp
There is only so much i'm prepared to do to get oxp ships converted to neolites. However, your favorite ships may clash with the newer styles - or maybe you have an oxp and you'd like to convert the models.
Once the above two oxps are finalized, I'll be able to help out. However, there is no reason you cannot make your own ships.
The purpose of this thread is to provide a loose Bible by example of what to do to convert an existing oolite model into a neolite-looking one.
Step 1. Get the model - if it's yours, then you have it already. If not, then it's probably polite to find the creator and tell them what you are planning. They may already have one, or you may need to use the dat2obj script from oolite source tree.
The rest of the thread assumes you already have a model, I'll be using the asp mk2 model as an example.
You will also need to be familiar with your mesh editing program - I'm using Wings3D.
As some will be aware, I, with help, have been converting every standard ship into a new form with the express purpose of replacing every in-game ship.
Right now this consists of neolite.oxp - replacing all the default ships, and a neolite-companion.oxp which handles ships from the oldships.oxp
There is only so much i'm prepared to do to get oxp ships converted to neolites. However, your favorite ships may clash with the newer styles - or maybe you have an oxp and you'd like to convert the models.
Once the above two oxps are finalized, I'll be able to help out. However, there is no reason you cannot make your own ships.
The purpose of this thread is to provide a loose Bible by example of what to do to convert an existing oolite model into a neolite-looking one.
Step 1. Get the model - if it's yours, then you have it already. If not, then it's probably polite to find the creator and tell them what you are planning. They may already have one, or you may need to use the dat2obj script from oolite source tree.
The rest of the thread assumes you already have a model, I'll be using the asp mk2 model as an example.
You will also need to be familiar with your mesh editing program - I'm using Wings3D.
Last edited by Simon B on Thu Feb 12, 2009 6:21 am, edited 2 times in total.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- Simon B
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Step 1: Get the Model
This is the standard Asp mk2 - the std Neolite ship has an explicit front window and a rounded lower hull. The flat-panel upper-hull remains as a hint to the legacy.
Note - this approach is formulaic and fast - more creative designs will also fit.
This is the standard Asp mk2 - the std Neolite ship has an explicit front window and a rounded lower hull. The flat-panel upper-hull remains as a hint to the legacy.
Note - this approach is formulaic and fast - more creative designs will also fit.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- Simon B
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Step 2: Bump and Slide
Select the panels you want to remain flat, rt-click, then select "bump". you don't need to do much of a bump. This will create a clear separation between the bits you want to modify.
After the bump - move the selection (same selection) in the -z direction to create a strong overlap.
Now inspect the model - some tidying up will be needed - you will need to dissolve surplus nodes or, as in this case, move misplaced nodes into a better position (see below)
From here it should be clear where you want the exhaust, and which areas will end up as a smooth under-hull.
Select the panels you want to remain flat, rt-click, then select "bump". you don't need to do much of a bump. This will create a clear separation between the bits you want to modify.
After the bump - move the selection (same selection) in the -z direction to create a strong overlap.
Now inspect the model - some tidying up will be needed - you will need to dissolve surplus nodes or, as in this case, move misplaced nodes into a better position (see below)
From here it should be clear where you want the exhaust, and which areas will end up as a smooth under-hull.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- Simon B
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Step 3: Smooth and Finish
Here, an "outie" exhaust is created by selecting the back panel and applying a generous bump. In general, outie exhausts look good on small craft and innie ones work well on large craft - but, like belly buttons, there's no hard and fast rule here.
The panels which need to be smoothed are selected - note: not the exhaust panel - we want that flat. Then rt-click and select "smooth" or press S.
Stop and inspect the model - more tidying up is usually needed here. you are watching for points or edges too close together.
Particularly, the exhaust panel has acquired extra edges - select the central panel, change to edges, then dissolve. - Fastest way to delete them.
Also check the aesthetics, in this model I have scaled the underhull in the x axis to make it more tubular. However, I could have left it - which would make the model more like the (Neo)Krait.
Once the basic proportions are added - you can include those details you don't want to normal-map. Here I've added an inset exhaust, and iset areas to house some major grillwork - also a signiture of the neolite style.
Here, an "outie" exhaust is created by selecting the back panel and applying a generous bump. In general, outie exhausts look good on small craft and innie ones work well on large craft - but, like belly buttons, there's no hard and fast rule here.
The panels which need to be smoothed are selected - note: not the exhaust panel - we want that flat. Then rt-click and select "smooth" or press S.
Stop and inspect the model - more tidying up is usually needed here. you are watching for points or edges too close together.
Particularly, the exhaust panel has acquired extra edges - select the central panel, change to edges, then dissolve. - Fastest way to delete them.
Also check the aesthetics, in this model I have scaled the underhull in the x axis to make it more tubular. However, I could have left it - which would make the model more like the (Neo)Krait.
Once the basic proportions are added - you can include those details you don't want to normal-map. Here I've added an inset exhaust, and iset areas to house some major grillwork - also a signiture of the neolite style.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- Simon B
- ---- E L I T E ----
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- Joined: Thu Oct 23, 2008 5:54 am
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Step 4: Forward Viewport
Most forward views involve cutting into a flat panel. As before, innie and outie styles are possible. The asp is a combat craft, so we go in.
The general approach is to isolate a squarish panel in the middle of the front, inset into it, dissolve the forward two nodes (for innie - aftward 2 far outie) then move the non-dissolved pair in the -y direction until a decent window area is formed.
Watch the size of the window - you want to keep the height between 40-200cm (narrower for combat craft) and the width between 100 and 400cm - though that latter is less strict. The bigger the ship the wider this can be.
You can check by selecting two points and looking at the y component of the (x,y,z) distance data that appears on the top left of the window.
From there - the rest is cosmetic:
Using inset + move-normal on the odd panel is effective here. A trick is to dissolve edges that go diagonally across panels, inset, move-normal, put the edge back... avoids unsightly jags.
Remember that fiddly effects can be handled in the normal map.
Step 5: UV-Mapping
Now you have a completed model - time to skin it.
This process is outside the scope of this howto.
Have fun
Most forward views involve cutting into a flat panel. As before, innie and outie styles are possible. The asp is a combat craft, so we go in.
The general approach is to isolate a squarish panel in the middle of the front, inset into it, dissolve the forward two nodes (for innie - aftward 2 far outie) then move the non-dissolved pair in the -y direction until a decent window area is formed.
Watch the size of the window - you want to keep the height between 40-200cm (narrower for combat craft) and the width between 100 and 400cm - though that latter is less strict. The bigger the ship the wider this can be.
You can check by selecting two points and looking at the y component of the (x,y,z) distance data that appears on the top left of the window.
From there - the rest is cosmetic:
Using inset + move-normal on the odd panel is effective here. A trick is to dissolve edges that go diagonally across panels, inset, move-normal, put the edge back... avoids unsightly jags.
Remember that fiddly effects can be handled in the normal map.
Step 5: UV-Mapping
Now you have a completed model - time to skin it.
This process is outside the scope of this howto.
Have fun
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
Wouldn't this be more appropriately joined or reposted into the shipyard sticky in the OXP forum?
My OXPs via Boxspace or from my Wiki pages .
Thargoid TV
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- Simon B
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But but but ... I'm writing it...Thargoid wrote:Wouldn't this be more appropriately joined or reposted into the shipyard sticky in the OXP forum?
... the big huge stickies are good, but they can get too big and some methods go out of date.
Technicaly the neolites thread should be in the oxp forum too ... since it's gone from a discussion topic to a project.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- wackyman465
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- Simon B
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A bit like this:... whats the poly count on the cadeusus?[/quote] I suppose its kind of like preferring paintbrush or pencil. Anyway there's nothing wrong with my kung-fu that a good bump map won't put right. In the mean time ta for the tutorial. :)[/quote]Well, you're right there - if ever a craft was cut out for the griff treatment...ClymAngus wrote:I think I'm more a simple shape, complex texture kind of man.
Not all ships need converting - Cadeusus will fit nicely for eg. (I would be a useful exersize to find the oxps which will fit the look and list them.) And the asp is a case in point:
... what actually made it.
The strict philosophy is to look behind the simple shapes to better approximate whatever the "real life" craft looks like. If you were forced to make a model of that (above), but restricted to a half-dozen polys, you'd end up with something very similar to the classic model.
There are a lot of oxps which are basically reskins of the classic models - many will look out of place. But - many of them are not used much - so they are a low priority. A fan of, say, the asp varients, may like to do a conversion using the neoasp model while those people who like the oxps with no neolite model available now have a roadmap.
The idea here is to provide a means to quickly convert any of the ultra-low poly models to something that works with the neolite oxp rather than provide a blueprint for making ship models for oolite in general.
I'd be happy to see people making their own neolite-style conversions - and new ships. Should that start happening - I'd consider the project a success. Indeed, I submit that unless this happens, there is no point using these models in the default build.
So - those who want to see the fancy-classics as a default - vote with your modelling skills.
Simon Bridge
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
[re2dux] [neolite]
"Everything is perfect down to every last flaw..."
HBT: The Book of Verse - Principia Discordia
- ClymAngus
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Why yes, rather a lot like that actually.Simon B wrote:A bit like this:
Simon B wrote:whats the poly count on the cadeusus?
126 vertex, 244 faces. Not tiny but not huge. Sure the engines could have done with a bit more work. But hey, modeling was never my strong point (always ending up with vertes on top of each other and triple connected. You know the fiddly bollocks that takes about 3 hours to fix.)
Photoshop on the other hand, I can do that.
Ah, roll on the next version and truely we shall all be blessed with lovely bumpy ships. I'll be first in line to give my ships the gray tone make over. I remember what my CDT lecturer said; "Keep it simple do it well". It's a phrase I have taken to heart with my design ethic. It's not overly simple as in 16 vertex. What I was trying to acheve was a happy medium between complexity and efficiency given the skills I possess. I've bundled low res versions of the ship in with the zip file for the lesser processors of this world.Simon B wrote:Well, you're right there - if ever a craft was cut out for the griff treatment...
I would say although I commend your vision and your work so far. It might be prudent to discuss any neo-isms with the original creators if they're still around. One would hope they would want to improve on their designs themselves (and give them sexier textures, Let's not forget the sexy textures). But any act of improvement on anothers work begins with deplomacy.
But the work so far. Spot on.