Nite Owl wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 2:28 pm
What you have to do to eliminate the rough flying is to calibrate the joystick.
The potentiometers (an assumption!) in the "throttle" are low-precision components - probably only +/- 20% of quoted range, possibly +/-50% - and the carbon track on most "pots" wears fairly rapidly. If you're designing for precision or longevity, you'd use a wire-wound pot (expensive!) or a chain of more-precise resistors (+/-5%, +/-2% ... what's your budget?)
Somewhere in the software (maybe built into the stick's firmware - use "debug" to run the code from the appropriate address) would be a procedure for measuring the resistance of the pot at low end (the "zero" setting), and at the high end ("span"), then interpolate between the two (with assumptions or questions about the pot's profile - linear track?; log track? ; quadratic?; custom?).
I wouldn't assume entirely that it's a pot. It could be 2 switches at the limits of travel, or even 3 with a mid-point. The split design of the "throttle" looks like it mimics boats (or to a lesser degree, multi-engine aircraft), where you can throttle the left engine (props, screws, thrusters) differently to the right one to yaw the craft (rotate on a vertical axis). That would map to the "," and "." keys on a default Oolite mapping. But the Oolite ... paradigm for yawing is more about bow and stern "thrusters" than throttling the main engines.
How to map that onto the state of 4 (6?) switches ... depending on what's in the hardware is a question indeed.
Didn't original Oolite - sorry, Elite - have a setting for auto-centring of the flight controls after a control instruction .. no that was an early flight sim. Involved atmospheres. But centring the controls was a part of calibrating aircraft, boats, whatever after mucking with the hardware of the steering and control systems. If you have the front end of your car apart, you have to adjust the ... I forget the name - tracking rod? - to adjust the "toe-in" or "toe out" of the steering wheels (which is equivalent to the "span" setting above. You set the "zero" with shims between the wheel support castings and the chassis - to allow for manufacturing tolerances in castings and chassis. I had a trainee once who carefully shimmed between the bolt heads and the casting. Well, different system, same concept.
Sorry, I spent so many years working out how to measure this, that, or the other on a drilling rig - the thinking persists even after you cease to wake up screaming.
For throwing your hat in the air? (including retracting the canopy in aircraft?)
OIC - ejector seat/ escape capsule, whatever.
The switch position (? grey plastic fitting) on the end of one of the throttles is placed to operate with the pinky (little, or disposaable, finger)? You couldn't operate it with the thumb when using one hand on the joystick, one hand on the throttle. Regardless of whether the image is flipped left-right.
When I looked at these options, they were <b>all</b> designed assuming the user was right-hand dominant, which didn't fit for me. So, no sale. So when I broke my hand and couldn't "mouse" due to the "pot" (plaster cast, not potentiometer), I ended up with trackball for a couple of months. With which I had to carry a roll of double-sided "carpet tape" with, because it didn't have feet that stuck to the desk. Does this thing "stick" to the desk?